911, 911 Porsche, Porsche, Porsche 997, porsche body kit, porsche performance, Porsche radaitor, Uncategorized

997 Center Radiator install

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Ok, we are back after a mandatory blog vacation issued by the boss! Oh wait, that was me and I really was just slacking. So time to stop slacking and post some of what’s been in the shop!

 

 In normal iA fashion nothing should ever be left stock. In this case we take a 997S and add a center radiator. We install and sell these as a whole unit. So whether you are having a shop install it or doing it yourself the kit comes with everything you need. Radiator, lines, bolts, screws, plastic shroud, plastic diverter and so on. It is a pretty nice kit that is great for any 997 headed to the track or someone that simply wants to drop the water temperatures down in a cost effective way. Yes, I did say cost effective. I know that seems foreign to use Porsche and Cost Effective in the same sentence.

 

dsc00934 The first thing is to remove the bumper. The install should take about 4 hours maybe more if you are a weekend warrior and tripping over that 6 pack of Budweiser on the floor with your buddies. You will want to remove the plastic cover around the latch area. This simply pulls up and around the latch. You will want to also remove the left and right turn signals. Next you will want to remove the torx. You will want to grab T30 and a T20. There are both sizes used in various positions. Pull the torx along the top of the bumper. Next remove the ones in the turn signal area and then work your way under the car and remove all the torx around the lower edge. Next you will want to remove the inner fender liners. I have seen guys do it without removing them, but to be honest to struggle around their placement is a pain and especially if this is your first and only time…it is easier to remove them. There should be 4 torx in the well then I believe two under the car. I always get these mixed up between the turbo and NA cars.

 

Once you have these all remove you will want to look in-between the fender and bumper just inside the trunk area. There is a blade that pushes like a latch, it mates the bumper and fender together to suck in the body line around the headlight. You can remove these by using a pick and grabbing the hole that is pictured in the jpg. Just tug on the piece. It may seem stubborn but it will come out. Next make sure that you disconnect the plug in the passenger side wheel well by the radiator. The last thing to remove is the headlight washer line. You can do this by pinching in the clip and pulling the hose out. This is located on the driver side on the inside of the bumper just forward of the turn signal.

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Now pull the bumper off. Make sure you don’t scratch it!! You have now exposed the front bumper support. It requires a 17mm socket on each of the bolts. Remove these and simply pull the support off. Next you will want to pull the plugs in the radiators on the side. In each radiator there is a factory block off plug in each end. This is so that you can add the center radiator easily and don’t have to change the hoses or the units in order to cool things down! As you can see from the pictures you just pull the clips and then the plugs can be pulled out. Once this is done you can now install the rear shroud. The kit comes with the bolts and nuts to attach it to the body. Grab the hoses and install these. There will be a left and a right hose to connect to the proper ports. I use a little silicone grease around the o-ring. This ensures that the hose drops into the neck and the outer clip seats fully. If it doesn’t and you do not hear a click then the hose will pop out under pressure.

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Now install the radiator. Same theory applies here with the silicone grease on the o-ring. This will help slip the hose in to the neck of the radiator. Once you have these in then install the lower support with the 6mm bolts from the kit. Next install the outer shroud. Suck the coolant system down and reinstall the bumper

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911, 911 Porsche, 993, 993TT, 997TT, EFI, Porsche News, porsche performance, Projects, turbo Porsche

iA moves in to a new world of custom programing!!

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For years ImagineAuto with my lead have been tuning turbos of many generations. Most of our major tuning in house has been on the various EFI systems installed from electromotive, Autronic to Motec. In years past we grouped with GIAC to help with program our TTs, Boxsters, 996s and so on. The biggest hurdle for us was always the time it took to deal with the larger companies and really getting the level of tuning we knew and wanted. Tuning EFIs for the last 15 years I am very particular about what I want for our customers and what they need. Always getting there is a different story.

Our relationship with EVO spans back since the beginning of both companies introduction into the Porsche tuning world. We have grown and built our companies together like two fathers watching their children grow on the same baseball league.

 

EVO Motorsports and more specifically Todd Zuccone over the last 1.5 years had been working behind the scenes to elevate the same issues I was having so he acquired the means to tune and headed down the path to become educated in a very complicated program. The end results have been nothing short of staggering.

 

How does this come into play with myself and iA you ask…Well, on many levels with the knowledge of tuning I have had for the last 15 years and what Todd has acquired in this specific arena and OBD port flashing and tuning we are now truly able to write and program for any Porsche with our exact needs, wants and criteria in mind.  There are only a few people in the industry associated with the EVOMSit software that can write it in house. We are one of those selected few that have that ability. So no more canned programs where we rely on the program accepting and moving parameters as much as 20% to compensate for broad tuning. We can specifically tune where and what maps we want.

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EVOMSit is dedicated to achieving ultimate perfection with the upgrades and services that we offer.  ECU tuning is an art and having the ability to manipulate various different Porsche ECU’s is something that only a handful of companies throughout the world can successfully perform.  EVOMSit is one of these elite few that can live tune Bosch and the Siemens-VDO ECU’s in house; however this is only a piece of the equation.

 

The other critical aspect of successful ECU tuning is to possess complete hands on mechanical understanding of the latest generation high performance Porsche engines.  This is the foundation of  EVOMSit and there are no other US based aftermarket performance companies that have more experience and has built more engines than Evolution MotorSports has.  We have practically reengineered the entire Porsche flat 6 engine and we have manufacture our own components that replace the OEM internals.  Combining these two equally important facets of the engine tuning process clearly sets  EVOMSit as a true leader in all aspects of engine tuning and development.

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Our testing and performance validation procedures are carried out under very strict conditions including dyno power testing and drive simulation, street driving as well as on the race track.  Our modified vehicles have been tested by professional race drivers for independent validation and product feedback at the Bondurant test track. We test vehicles with various different performance components, exhausts, intake systems, turbos and we ensure our software is compatible and yields powerful, consistent and reliable results.  Our portfolio of performance software is available for all late model Porsche vehicles from 1996 to the current model Cayenne and 911 DFI engines.

911, 911 Porsche, 997TT, bilstein, Bilstein Coilover, Bilstein Damptronic, Bilstein PSS10, Bilstein PSS9, Bilstein suspension, Porsche, porsche performance, springs, suspension, turbo, turbo Porsche

On with the Mods….Suspension time! Bilstein Coilover heaven.

 

 

 

 

Originally when we bought the 997TT in from Chicago there were little in the way of modifications available. We created some in the form of tuning, worked with other companies to build intakes, etc. The one thing that simply was not available while leaving the PASM in place was suspension modifications. Knowing that the car was really not headed to the Dakar Rally we quickly teamed with Tech Art and waited until the first set of TA lowering springs hit American soil. Once in and on the car finally had a stance that we could be proud of.

The ride was firmer but like any lowering spring addition you always seem to find your self saying, does that rebound with the spring feel right….nah must be in my head. So we accepted that for the money it was certainly well worth the gain and the looks it created.

Over the summer we received a brand new Bilstein Dampstronic suspension. It has sat what feels like forever next to the couch in my office. Projects and day to day business certainly put the slow down on personal projects. So finally as we have found a small enough window to have installed my brand new suspension.

Unlike the suspension kits from Bilstein for past cars or current cars that would use the PSS9s or PSS10s this system doesn’t have the ability to control damping of the system by a knob on the top of the housing. The system remains completely PASM compliant and has all the workings to internally lock up the strut for a stiffer ride just like the factory. The difference is the progressive nature of the system. The more the system is pushed the more aggressive it becomes on the road. Drive to the grocery store and the system is very compliant and drives well. In fact much better than stock in my opinion. No bobbing, uneasy roll, very firm and sure on the road. Need a little more than that, hit the sport button and allow the system to lock it down and hit the track. This is without question one of the best improvements for the car both on the street and track use.

 

 

 

Install is pretty straight forward, pull the old ones off, install the new ones in the exact same fashion. This system is completely adjustable so ride height is open to the hearts content. I personally chose a GT3RS ride height. The alignment specs we chose are not that of GT3RS but one of a cross between the Gt2 and the TT. Win win for many situations and certainly daily driving.

 

911, 911 Porsche, 997TT, auto interior, Porsche, Porsche boost gauge, Porsche custom gauges, porsche performance, Projects, Sport Chrono, turbo Porsche

Custom gauge in a 997TT, sure why not.

What do you do when you have a dash of stock gauges that doesn’t lend its self to any space to do anything cool…As I love to say in other aspects of my life….create the space!! When I purchased my car it had to have the sport chrono in order to take advantage of the “sport” function Porsche offered. The 1850.00 upgrade not only included a more aggressive map, more boost, aggressive throttle response and a stiffer pasm program but it included this really cool gauge (not) in the middle of my dash. Just incase I live on a track I can keep up with my own time. Honestly I think the track slip is probably a better option but who am I to question Porsche’s thought process.

 

Factory gauge

We grouped up with a old buddy of mine who has started a gauge company called in your face gauges.  They specialize in many gauge application from Porsche to BMW and then some. We set up to do something in the 997TT that would set every other gauge into a boring category compared to this one. Understand that this is still under development but the base work is done on the gauge side. The function controls will eventually end up in the OEM computer stalk control or possibly the mirror control. Yes, both would remain functional with a toggle what would allow you to control the gauge and the proper OEM equipments.

This HD gauge is able to simply tap into the OBD2 port. In this case I have added not only all the available OBD2 data that is available through the plug, but we also added a boost module that takes its own source.  Other options for cars that do not have OBD2 like anything pre 96 you can add lots of stuff, as mentioned anything from boost to AFRs and then some.

The programming possibilities are endless with this setup. If you can’t find anything that you like in stock form you can also log into the company and actually request or down load a custom gauge faces! In addition to that you can have an analog setup, a plot setup, numbers, or your fancy custom gauge.

The unit we are using is a custom fit 52mm gauge that fit rather nicely in the stock sport chrono location….Nothing stays stock in my hands too long!

 

911, 911 Porsche, 997TT, Forced induction, GIAC, Porsche, Porsche exhaust, porsche performance, suspension, TT exhaust, turbo, turbo Exhaust, turbo Porsche, Uncategorized, Variable Vein Turbo, VTG

300 Mile 997 Twin with some added goodies. Our 610HP kit.

We have a very good customer that has sent various cars to us in the past. One of his priors was a very nice 91 965 that after 3 weeks of mods the car was truly to die for. As all things come to pass so did this car. No sooner than it sold I got a phone call that the new steed was on the way. In normal fashion the car made its way to KC for a list of mods. They include:

Our programming, Full suspension, intake, intercoolers, headers, exhaust, HF cats, short throw shifter, HRE P40s and tires. The car literally came to us with 300 miles on it and was never the same:) We do these mods on a pretty normal basis and the benefits are huge. While the TT has good power to begin with it lacks low end throttle response as well as a major dip in the power band at apx 5300 RPM due to goofy tuning from Porsche. The exhaust is very susceptible to heat and EGTs can be reduced by bringing back pressure down and increasing flow. The headers add TQ and the intake, well adds a little HP but really sounds great when you get on it =) That has to be worth something right…

 

911, 911 Porsche, engine rebuild, High performance rod bolts, Porsche, porsche performance, rod Bolts

Like anyone I was up bright and early to place the lower end of our monster 996TT motor together. Part of that process is placing the rods on the crankshaft. In most cases of factory rods engine-builders have been tightening rod bolts with a torque wrench and getting away with it. But in today’s high-performance world where we push engines to make a ton more power and spin at higher engine speeds, merely tightening rod bolts with a torque wrench is no longer the best way. In order to know why rod bolt stretch is a more accurate way to install a bolt, we have to get into a little bit of fastener basics.

 

 

Bolt Basics
A fastener works like a coil spring. As you tighten a bolt, it will stretch and generate a clamp load. The key to proper tightening of a fastener is to torque it until just slightly less than the bolt’s elastic limit. A bolt will stretch slightly as it is tightened. If you tighten the bolt too much, it will stretch beyond its elastic limit. If you measure a bolt’s overall length before you overtighten it, then again when you release the preload, the bolt will be slightly longer. This is similar to overstretching a coil spring. It does not return to its tightly packed position because the steel has been stretched and over-yielded. This is the bolt’s yield point, where it is permanently deformed. It’s the point just before it comes apart. The bolt’s ultimate tensile strength is the maximum stress imparted on the bolt before it breaks.

 

 

This applies to all fasteners, but it’s especially critical with rod bolts because they’re the most highly stressed fasteners in an internal combustion engine. With every revolution, the crankshaft yanks on the piston and rod assembly to pull it away from top dead center (TDC). The rod journal pulls on the rod cap, which tries to stretch the rod bolts. This stress becomes greater as engine speed increases since this load increases geometrically with rpm and forces the rod out of round, bending and fatiguing the bolt.

The key to keeping the rod cap on the rod is the amount of load created with the rod bolts. If the load created by the bolts is greater than the tension created by the crankshaft rod journal trying to pry the cap off the rod, then the engine will stay together. If the bolt is not properly preloaded (understretched) then the high-rpm tension is enough to stretch the rod bolts a very tiny amount with each revolution. This high-speed cycling of the bolt is similar to bending a paper clip back and forth until it breaks. That’s obviously something you want to avoid.

 

 

Torque vs. Stretch
The torque spec applied to any particular fastener is merely an estimate of the twisting force required to achieve the correct amount of preload or clamp load. Many times this is the only way to apply fastener load because the bolt threads into a blind hole like in the cylinder block. One advantage to the rod bolt is that both ends of the bolt can be accessed. This allows you to use a rod bolt stretch gauge. This is a specialty tool sold through companies like ARP that will accurately measure the amount of bolt stretch.

The procedure is actually quite simple. Once the connecting rod and cap are installed on the crank, start a nut on the rod bolt, slip on the appropriate-size box-end wrench, and then install the stretch gauge. Most high perfromance connecting rod bolts have a small dimple placed on both ends of the bolt that accurately position the rod bolt gauge pins on the bolt. Next, zero the gauge on the relaxed bolt. Then you carefully tighten the rod bolt until the gauge reads the appropriate stretch amount. For example, on this Porsche rod bolt the stretch was to be 5-7 thousands with no more than 65 ft lbs of TQ. We know that at 6.5 thousands we are at 58 Ft lbs and well within the meat of the spec.

Last but not least the bed in which the crank will lay…More on that later.

911, 911 Porsche, EFI, engine builder, engine rebuild, Forced induction, Porsche, porsche performance, Projects, turbo Porsche, Uncategorized

89 930 EFI Conversion returns

I hate to see any car we have built get into the hands of people that do not fully understand or appreciate the workings of a converted CIS to EFI turbo Porsche. This car was based on a 89 930, we quickly stripped the motor out of it and converted it to a 3.4 twinplug, Custom cams, large valves, headers, HF2 turbo and full Autronic SMC EFI system. We set the ignition up with M&W components, custom built the inlets off of the 3,2 NA intake fitted to increasedd TQ. The car originally laid apx 540 RWHP on our dyno.

 

 

After changing owners twice since I built it the newest owner who is a previous customer (we built his 79 930) showed up with it at our door. I had spent many hours with the shop in his home town trying to fix the issue. The issue was on going and kept the car from idling or running correct. Getting stuck in the middle of the intersection with a Porsche is never any fun. People will go out of their way to honk I swear.

We have a way we can read the computers and it was giving me several errors. All related to the cam and crank sensors. So I replaced the crank sensor and current plug system. We then upgraded the hall sensor to a much stouter version. This required the oil pump housing to be modified and fitted with the new sensor. Some more rewiring and the sensors were in. Additionally we rewelded the inlet pipe which was damaged when the car hit boost and pulled the line off, we also rewelded a bracket to the intake to ensure the originally integrity was there.

An oil change, valve adjustment and AC recharge and the car headed back to St Louis with a very happy owner. Nothing like a 830 cab that will walk sideways through 80 MPH!!